“Following the concept of sustainable fashion”: the use of research-based film to study the finnish fashion designers’ practices
How to Cite
Morozova D., Gurova O. “Following the concept of sustainable fashion”: the use of research-based film to study the finnish fashion designers’ practices. Interaction. Interview. Interpretation. 2017. Vol. 9. No. 14. P. 72-84. (in Russ.).
Abstract
This article discusses the use of a research-based film in social research as a strategy, method for data analysis and a form of presentation of findings using the film “Take it slow! Sustainable fashion for local community in Kallio, Helsinki” as an example. The research-based film is understood as a film made according to the principles of social research with video as a form of presenting its findings. The article discusses the procedures of film-making, including preparation stage, filming and editing. On the preparation stage it is important to decide about the audience of the research-based film; this will affect editing and define the platforms where the film will be shown. On the filming stage, it is important to take into account the balance of power in situation of filming and take into consideration the question of anonymity of interviewees. On editing stage, the article shows how thematic analysis can be applied as a principle of editing through combination of voiceover and quotations of the interviewees and how combination of voice-over, picture and music can be used to structures the argument. Overall, the article sheds lights on the possibilities that the research-based film has brought into social research in terms of broadening its audience and discusses the problems that the authors faced while working on the project.
Keywords:
visual methods in social research, research-based film, sustainable fashion, fashion designers, Finland
References
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Семенова В. В. Качественные методы: введение в гуманистическую социологию: Учеб. пособие для студентов вузов. М.: Добросвет, 1998.
Aakko M., Koskennurmi-Sivonen R. Designing sustainable fashion: Possibilities and challenges // Research Journal of Textile and Apparel. 2013. N 17 (1). P. 13–22.
Arvidsson A, Malossi G. and Naro S. Passionate work? Labour conditions in the Milan fashion industry // Journal for Cultural Research. 2010. N14 (3). P. 295–309.
Aus R. From trash to trend: Using upcycling in fashion design // Doctoral Thesis, Estonian Academy of Arts. 2011. URL: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3476076/Reet_Aus_doctoral_thesis.pdf (дата обращения: 18.10.2017)
Belk R. W., Kozinets R. V. Introduction to the Resonant Representations Issue of Consumption, Markets and Culture // Consumption, Markets and Culture. 2005. N 8 (3). P. 195–203.
Braun V., Clarke V. Using thematic analysis in psychology // Qualitative Research in Psychology. 2006. N 3. P. 77–101.
Crewe L. Tailoring and tweed: Mapping the spaces of “slow fashion” // Fashion Cultures Revisited / Ed. by S. Bruzzi and P. C. Gibson. London; New York: Routledge, 2013. P. 201–214.
De Valck K., Rokka J., Hietanen J. Videography in Consumer Research: Visions for a Method on the Rise // Finanza, Marketing & Produzione. 2006. N XXVII (4). P. 81–100.
Elzenbaumer B., Giuliani C. Designers’ inquiry: Mapping the socio-economic conditions of designers in Italy // Ephemera: Theory and Politics in Organization. 2014. N 14 (3). P. 451–459.
Fletcher K. Sustainable Fashion and Textiles. London; New York: Routledge, 2014.
Gibbs, G. R., Friese, S., Mangabeira, W. C. The use of new technology in qualitative research. Introduction to Issue 3 (2) of FQS, Forum Qualitative Sozialforschung // Forum: Qualitative Social Research, 2002. N 3 (2). URL http://www.qualitative-research.net/fqs-texte/2-02/2-02hrsg-e.htm (дата обращения: 18.10.2017).
Gurova O., Morozova D. A critical approach to sustainable fashion: Practices of clothing designers in the Kallio neighbourhood of Helsinki // Journal of Consumer Culture. 2016. Published online before print: doi:10.1177/1469540516668227 (дата обращения: 18.10.2017).
Hazel C. Slow + Fashion – an Oxymoron – or the Promise for the Future? // Fashion Theory. 2008. N 12 (4). P. 427–446.
Hethorn J., and Ulasewicz C. Introduction // Sustainable Fashion: Why Now? A Conversation about Issues, Practices, and Possibilities / Ed. by J. Hethorn and C. Ulasewicz. New York: Fairchild Books, Inc., 2008. P. 13–22.
Israel B., Schulz M., Parker A., Becker A. Community-based Participatory Research: Policy Recommendations for Promoting a Partnership Approach in Health Research // Education for Health. 2001. N 14 (2). P. 182–197.
Kanstrup A. M. Picture the practice – Using photography to explore use of technology within teachers’ work practices, Forum Qualitative Sozialforschung // Forum: Qualitative Social Research. 2002. N 3 (2).
Murray R. Zero Waste. London: Greenpeace Environmental Trust, 2002.
Loizos P. Innovation in ethnographic film: From innocence to self-consciousness: 1955–1985. Chicago: The University of Chicago Press, 1993.
Lunch N. and Lunch C. Insights into Participatory Video – a Handbook for the Field. Oxford: Insights, 2006.
McRobbie A. Fashion matters Berlin: city-spaces, women’s working lives, new social enterprise? // Cultural Studies. 2013. N 27 (6). P. 982–1010.
Pink S. Doing Visual Ethnography. Images, Media and Representation in Research. Sage: London, 2007.
McRobbie A. Be Creative: Making a Living in the New Culture Industry. Polity press, 2015.
Root R. A. Letter from the editor // Fashion Theory. 2008. N 12 (4). P. 419–426.
Shaw, J., Robertson C. Participatory Video: A Practical Guide to Using Video Creatively in Group Development Work. London: Routledge, 1997.
Shrum W., Duque R., Brown T. Digital Video as Research Practice: Methodology for the Millennium // Journal of Research Practice. 2005. URL: http://jrp.icaap.org/index.php/jrp/article/view/6/12 (дата обращения: 18.10.2017).
Stiegman, M., Pictou S. How do you say Netuklimuk in English? Using documentary video to capture Bear River First Nation’s learning through action // Learning from the ground up: global perspectives on social movements and knowledge production / Ed. A. Choudry and D. Kapoor. New York: Palgrave Macmillan, 2010.
Sunderland P.L. Entering entertainment: creating consumer documentaries for corporate clients // Handbook of Qualitative Research Methods in Marketing / Ed. Belk R.W. Cheltenham: Edward Elgar Publishing Limited, 2006.
Weinberg T. Making (in) Brooklyn: The production of textile, meaning and social change. / Textile society of America symposium proceedings. 2012. Paper 755. URL: http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article¼1754&context¼tsaconf (дата обращения: 18.10.2017)
Citation Formats
Other cite formats:
APA
Morozova, D., & Gurova, O. (2017). “Following the concept of sustainable fashion”: the use of research-based film to study the finnish fashion designers’ practices. Interaction. Interview. Interpretation, 9(14), 72-84. Retrieved from https://inter-fnisc.ru/index.php/inter/article/view/5510
Section
Research discourses: professional work, employment, ethnography
